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93
Longrow (1974, 25 year old, 46%)
Gold color. Peaty, smoky, mature aromas, with notes of damp earth, pencil shavings, seaweed, brine, and vanilla. Oily, viscous body. Flavors are similar to its aroma, with a spicy, salty, black pepper, dryish finish.
Style: Campbeltown single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $525. Availability: only 120 bottles for the entire United States (imported by Preiss Imports, 760/789-6010).
Here's the last of the Longrow 1974 vintage. There will not be another Longrow this old for another 14 years. This smoky version of Springbank is not as aggressive as younger expressions-time on oak has mellowed this bully of a whisky-but it still holds up nicely for its age.
(4th Quarter 2000 Issue-Vol. 9#4)
82
Longrow, 10 year old, 50%, $120
This peated expression of Springbank is fresh, powerful, and unbridled. A brief, gristy, sweet malt intro quickly becomes quite aggressive, with an attack of tar, damp peat, kippers, mustard seed, Spanish olives, and Poire Williams. The sweetness emerges again briefly, before succumbing to an assertive, fiery finish.
(4th Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#4)
78
Longrow Tokaji Wood, 10 year old, 55.6%, $110
I have tasted many superb Longrow whiskies in the past 15 years (not to mention some wonderful Tokaji dessert wines). This isn't one of them. Longrow is an assertive whisky, and I can see the logic of finishing the whisky in an equally big Hungarian wine. The flavors are equal in intensity-and this is certainly a dynamic whisky-but they just don't integrate well. You'll find notes of waxed fruit, raisin, ripe barley, smoked fig, and toffee. Cloying, waxy finish.
(3rd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#3)
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