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94
Glendronach 33 year old, 40%, $400
Matured entirely in oloroso sherry butts, this whisky is chock-full of lush fruit, roasted nuts, deep spice notes, and a hint of damp smoke. It is wonderfully integrated, with incredible depth and maturity without being tired-and it expresses a soothing quality that doesn't quit. It is stunning throughout and more polished and rounded than the 1968 Vintage released a while back, which, while enjoyable, was a tad sappy and a bit too oaky at times. This whisky is easily one of the 10 best new whiskies for 2005, and worth every penny. Get a bottle while you can.
(2nd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#2)
87
Glendronach 12 year old, 40% ABV, high $40s
Over the past decade there has been no shortage of Glendronach expressions. I know of at least one 15 year old, an 18 year old, a 19 year old, a 1968 vintage, and four different 12 year old versions. My favorite of the range was the limited edition 19 year old released here in the U.S. about a decade ago. The 1968 Vintage, which you can still find on retailers' shelves, is also a worthy dram. But this new 12 year old "Original" expression is certainly my favorite of the 12s (and the 15). I feel that Glendronach expresses itself best when it is not dominated by the sherry, allowing a greater balance of flavors. This whisky was originally matured in sherry casks, but was then (fortunately) aged in bourbon casks for the remainder of its maturation. The result? A richly flavored, nicely balanced whisky expressing notes of sherried fruit, burnt caramel, light toffee, and nuts, all underpinned by a soothing malty foundation. Yum!
(3rd Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#3)
83
Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Glendronach), 1974 Vintage, 46%, $210
An interesting whisky, with flavor notes I wouldn't normally find together-golden raisins, green grapes, plum, citrus tang, fresh ginger, almonds, and a hint of mint leaves, all wrapped by a pleasing maltiness with underlying notes of vanilla custard. Fairly dry, slightly hot finish. Many of the Glendronachs (especially from the distillery) are sherried. Some of the sherried versions, like the 33 year old, are excellent. However, this is a refreshing change of pace. I'm glad they bottled it when they did though, as any additional oak dryness would be detrimental.
(4th Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#4)
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