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93
Murray McDavid "Mission" (distilled at Clynelish, 1986, 46%)
Deep gold color. Fresh, exciting, spicy aroma of brine, exotic pepper, seaweed, and raw fruit, with interwoven notes of delicate peat and caramel. Full-bodied and muscular. Flavors are incredibly vibrant and dynamic-almost challenging-and are similar to its aroma. Salty, peppery, intense finish.
Style: Highland single malt Scotch whisky. Price: $150. Limited to 600 bottles (imported by Vin DiVino, 773/334-6700).
A great expression from a great distillery. The extra years of maturity have added great depth and maturity to this whisky. Yet it still is bold, fresh, and exciting. Worth the investment for any fan of coastal or island whiskies.
(3rd Quarter 2003 Issue-Vol. 12#3)
90
Adelphi (distilled at Clynelish, 1989, 10 year old, 61.5%)
Straw color. Fresh, appetizing aroma. Light-medium body. Nicely balanced flavors. Both the aroma and palate express notes of spices (Dijon mustard), brine, exotic peppers, caramel, and fruit. Lingering finish.
Style: Highland single malt Scotch whisky. Price: mid $80s. Limited availability (imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., 516/677-9300).
Clynelish whiskies are hard to find in the U.S. (typically only available through independent bottlers), which is a shame. They're usually wonderful Northern Highland whiskies with plenty of spice and sea character. This one is complex, vibrant, and very dynamic.
(4th Quarter 2000 Issue-Vol. 9#4)
87
Clynelish, 14 year old, 46%, $45
It's good to see an official distillery bottling of Clynelish in the U.S. This one is very true to the Clynelish style: fresh, appetizing, and very drinkable. Notes of brine, fruit (lemon-lime), and vanilla-accented malt, are the foundation of this whisky. Delicate seaweed, peat, exotic pepper and a hint of citrus rind bitterness entertain the palate throughout, all the way to its appetizingly briny, seaweed-tinged finish. Perhaps the definitive aperitif whisky.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
83
Signatory "Un-chillfiltered" (distilled at Clynelish), 13 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%, $45
Very pale in color, suggesting it was aged in a used bourbon cask. One nosing confirms it. A fairly light, fresh, and appetizing whisky, with notes of brine, mustard seed, and delicate honeyed vanilla. Slightly oily in texture. Seaweed, with suggestions of ginger and bourbon on the finish. An aperitif whisky, or with sushi perhaps? (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)
(2nd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#2)
81
Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Clynelish), 1976 Vintage, 46%, $210
Thick in texture and palate-coating. Ripe peaches and bananas, orange chocolate, English toffee, and a hint of damp oak on the nose. I can also detect brine, seaweed, peat smoke, and spice, but it's a little clumsy. Same story on the palate. Not a bad whisky, but I expect more from Clynelish.
(4th Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#4)
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