|
<< Return to Complete Buyer's Guide List.
89
Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Caol Ila), 15 year old, 1990 vintage, 43%, $75
Fresh and quite aromatic. Nice interplay between soothing malty sweetness and honest "naked" Caol Ila notes (in the sense that all the classic Caol Ila flavors are exposed-leafy smoke, tarry rope, salt & pepper spice, seaweed, and olive). An evolving whisky, with a phenolic, briny crescendo that lingers. Nicely done.
(2nd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#2)
89
Signatory (distilled at Caol Ila, 1989, 43%)
Pale gold color. Aromas and flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, lemon grass, olives, and green peppercorns. Medium bodied, and slightly oily in texture. Long, dry peat smoke finish.
Style: Islay single malt scotch. Price: low $40s. Available nationwide (imported by Dime Group International, 847/573-0009).
Caol Ila is an Islay dram that Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Bowmore fans must become acquainted with. Although distllery bottlings are not available here in the U.S., many independent bottlers offer it. This expression is young, vibrant, and exciting.
(4th Quarter 2000 Issue-Vol. 9#4)
89
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 14 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%, $75
Finished in cognac wood. The cognac wood influence might dominate other whiskies, but the Coal Ila is big enough for challenge. If anything, it seems to contribute a silky elegance to what would otherwise be a brooding, bare-knuckled whisky;. It works nicely. Notes of germinating barley, vanilla cream, grape preserve, and peat bonfire, with a salty, smoky finish. (Available in the Chicago area.)
(2nd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#2)
88
Caol Ila, 12 year old, 43%, $50
Like the Clynelish 14 year old also reviewed in this issue, it is nice to see Diageo finally introduce official distillery bottlings of Caol Ila here in the U.S. (after being available in the UK for many years now). My suitcases were getting quite heaving on my return trips from Scotland. This is a splendid Coal Ila. It is wonderfully vibrant. Understandably, the immediate impact on the palate is the peat smoke, but there's so much else going on here, too: smoked olives, seaweed, salt and pepper, all placed on a gently sweet bed of toffee and vanilla fudge. Lingering smoke, olives, and seaweed on the finish.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
88
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila, 15 year old, 40%)
Amber gold color. An exciting aroma-classic Islay. It is very phenolic, reminiscent of standing downwind of a peat kiln. Interwoven spice (especially pepper), seaweed, and sweet & sour notes add complexity. Light to medium in body, but quite oily. Nicely balanced flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, salt & pepper, all wrapped up in a gentle sweetness. Lingering peat smoke and spice on the finish.
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: low $80s. Limited availability (imported by Classic Wine Imports, 617/469-5799).
Yet another example of Caol Ila's fine pedigree. This bottling has great balance, and I especially enjoy how the smoke and sweetness marry together. My only criticism is that it is a bit soft for Caol Ila. I would love to try this whisky at 46 or 50% ABV, which would give it a bit more guts.
(3rd Quarter 2001 Issue-Vol. 10#3)
88
Caol Ila 25 year old, 59.4%, $225
A rounded and mature affair. The 25 years in oak has made it a bit more refined (and drier on the palate) compared to younger expressions. All the classic Caol Ila notes are stillthere-mustard, seaweed, olives, damp peat, salt and pepper. A touch of vanilla wafer, anise, smoked almonds, and tarry rope add complexity. Those of you who prefer Ardbeg 17 over the 10, and Laphroaig 15 over the 10, will be attracted to this whisky when compared to Caol Ila's younger siblings. But at $225, it's an expensive date, isn't it?
(4th Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#4)
87
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 8 year old, 1996 vintage, 58.1%, $55
The Islay character is most evident in the younger whisky expressions, before the oak has tamed them. This whisky is a perfect example: an uninhibited, incredibly powerful Caol Ila, thumping out notes of tarry rope, damp peat, kippers, and seaweed. Background spices (salt, pepper, ginger) add intrigue, while a firm foundation of vanilla malt struggles to provide soothing comfort. Extreme Islay whisky. (A Binny's Beverage Depot exclusive.)
(3rd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#3)
85
Dun Bheagan (distilled at Caol Ila) 1993 Vintage, 10 year old, 43% ABV, $56
An unusual Caol Ila, in that it was finished in a rum cask. The rum influence is subtle - which I like - and it offers a new dimension to the whisky without blunting that Caol Ila character we have come to either love or (for some of you) despise. Olives, seaweed, fire smoke, salt and pepper notes are wrapped up nicely in a malty/caramel blanket. Peppery, smoky finish that lingers on like the embers of an all-night bonfire.
(3rd Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#3)
85
Scott's Selection (distilled at Caol Ila), 1984 vintage, 53.5%, $215
Caol Ila enthusiasts will be familiar with the tarry rope, seaweed, brine, and white pepper. All this is underpinned nicely by soft, sweeter notes of dark chocolate and vanilla nut truffle. Subtle underlying juniper, horehound, and mint adds intrigue. Nice oily texture with a pleasing dry finish. Time has tempered this Caol Ila, but it has aged gracefully.
(4th Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#4)
85
Signatory (distilled at Caol Ila), 14 year old, 1990 vintage, 56.2%, $50
Light to medium in body (and quite pale in color), but quite invigorating. A flirtatious vanilla sweetness at the front of the palate quickly evolves into spicy, peppery, grassy notes. The whisky evolves further, expressing notes of smoke, tar, chewy seaweed, brine, feint green tea and olives. A persistent, if delicate, honey sweetness hangs on throughout to offer some gentility. Lingering, smoky finish. A raw whisky, but somehow compelling. An excellent value too! (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)
(3rd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#3)
85
Gordon & MacPhail "Connoisseurs Choice" (distilled at Caol Ila), 13 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%, $70
An interesting contrast to the Signatory bottling reviewed above. While expressing a similar fundamental flavor profile, this one is a more polished affair and not as daring. It is fuller in body, nicely rounded, and expresses a sweeter foundation (less honey, more toffee and caramel).
(3rd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#3)
83 Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), cask #00/3454, 15 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%, $85
One of a series of single cask, wine-finished Caol Ilas. This one is finished in a claret (Bordeaux) wine cask. The claret adds some bright red fruit notes (raspberry, red currant) and red licorice to accompany the smoke, brine, olive, and vanilla-laced malt. I have tasted some claret/Bordeaux wood-finished whiskies where the wine was too dominant, but this one achieves a nice balance.
(3rd Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#3)
82
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 12 year old, 1991 Vintage, 40%, $60
Notes of smoked olives and an earthy peatiness wrapped inside layers of sweetness (honey, caramel and light toffee). The whisky is laced with seaweed and pepper for added zest, with a long smoky and peppery finish. It shows enough maturity, yet it is young enough to let the true Caol Ila character shine through. I would like to have seen this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered.
(2nd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#2)
81
Caol Ila, 18 year old, 43%, $65
This Caol Ila was released the same time as the 12 year old, reviewed above. Older isn't always better, especially with Islay whiskies. I felt that way when comparing Ardbeg 17 to Ardbeg 10 year old, and I feel the same with these two Caol Ila whiskies. This 18 year old has the same flavor profile as the 12 year old. It's a well-rounded dram too, but it has lost the vibrancy and dynamic intensity of the 12 year old. If you want to experience Caol Ila in its entire youthful splendor-and save a few bucks while you're at it-then buy the 12 year old.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
81
Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Caol Ila), 26 year old, 1979 vintage, 43%, $135
Mature and gentle, when compared to the 1990 expression above. If the flavors of the 1990 Caol Ila reviewed above are nakedly exposed, then this Caol Ila is wearing a winter coat. The same flavor notes are there, but they're less noticeable. Pleasingly salty, gently drying finish.
(2nd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#2)
79
Signatory (distilled at Caol Ila), 15 year old, 1991 vintage, cask #06/324/1&2, 46%, $55
Very pale. A little thin in body, sharp and penetrating. Very Caol Ila-like, with notes of damp peat, Greek olives, seaweed, mustard seed, incense, gin herbs, freshly ground pepper, and vanilla malt. Smoldering peat finish. I would like to see more body to this whisky. (634 bottles produced.)
(1st Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#1)
<< Return to Complete Buyer's Guide List.
|
